I have to admit that this is the first time I have ever made a lardy cake, one of our many traditional yeasted fruit breads (for bread it is), having admired it from afar for many years but for some reason it has always managed to slip through the net in The Eating Tree kitchen.
In hindsight, this is probably not the most appropriate time of the year to post a recipe with such a high fat content as judging from other blogs, Twitter and the media in general, social or otherwise, the whole nation is tripping over itself as it rushes into 2015 scrambling towards the salad counter, with New Year’s Resolutions of rapid weight loss and Olympian fitness still echoing loudly in everyones’ heads.
However, we at The Eating Tree find January quite a difficult month to contend with, without the added onus and responsibility of having to count the calories. The festivities of Christmas and the New Year are over, leaving somewhat of an anti-climax and rather like a balloon with a slow puncture our holiday highs are slowly deflating. The new PlayStation Game has not quite come up to our son’s expectations and is noticeably being played less and less (not a bad thing in itself, it just means he will be looking out for the next game to take its place rather sooner than envisaged). The new jumper, which my husband couldn’t wait to wear, is already developing rather saggy cuffs, requiring constant washes to keep it in shape.
Whilst the house was looking delightfully seasonal in December, hung with a whole host of baubles, twigs, trees, swags and stockings, for a few weeks the decorations did a marvellous job of camouflaging the areas of the house that need decorating. Now the empty spaces are a reminder that the dreaded Farrow and Ball paint chart needs to be dug out of Pandora’s Drawer in the kitchen.
My son has returned to school, not his favourite place at the best of times. My husband has returned to work where he is mostly outside in the cold and damp January air and I am in the house, thinking of blog posts and how to cheer up both boys when they return from their daily drudge.
Comfort food is what is needed in January, usually in the form of healthy soups and stews, the added dumplings will not break the calorie bank and will be certain to raise a smile from even the gloomiest little face. And the odd piece of cake will bring more joy, something which is eminently good for the soul, than anything else I can think of.
Although even I, with my love of anything with a smooth, comforting fatty quality to it, will have to admit that a lardy cake should be reserved for only the very odd occasion. Skimming though my well-thumbed copy of Elizabeth David’s English Bread and Yeast Cookery she even states that “Like every packet of cigarettes, every lardy cake should carry a heath warning.”
Like a lot of traditional fare, the origins of this fabulous piece of English culinary history have become cloudy over time and depending on which information you happen to stumble across, it can hail from the North of England, Northumberland, Wiltshire or Hampshire, all with varying amounts of fruit and spice or no fruit at all. And I don’t know who has written the Wikipedia entry but apparently it is made in the West Country, particularly the counties of Gloucestershire, Wiltshire and Suffolk! Geography was not obviously their strong point.
The piece of information that everyone seems to agree on is that they were originally reserved for celebratory feasts on occasions such as harvest festivals and other such high days and holidays.
I have not skimped on the fat content on this recipe which seems to be the growing trend, although I have used half butter and half lard, not because of any perceived health benefits but just to give it a buttery taste. The result was so delicious, the outer crust was almost caramelised, with the most fabulous sweet and sticky crispy bits. The bread itself is not overly sweet as I have nearly halved the sugar content from the original recipe in The Complete Bread and Baking Book by Linda Collister and Anthony Blake. As a nod to more modern baking methods I used instant yeast instead of fresh and my trusty Kenwood Chef kindly did the kneading for me.
I will certainly be making this again, probably when I know visitors are coming in order that it can be shared, probably wise, even for January.
- 500g White Bread Flour
- 14g Instant Yeast (2 x 7g sachets)
- 1 tsp Salt
- 150g Sugar
- 230ml Milk
- 110g Unsalted Butter
- 110g Lard
- 240g Mixed Dried Fruit such as raisins, currants and sultanas
- Put the flour, yeast and salt in a large bowl and rub in 30g of the lard with your fingertips until you have fine breadcrumbs.
- Add the milk and mix with your hand until the dough is smooth and and soft and is not sticking to the side of the bowl.
- On a lightly floured surface, knead the dough for 5-10 minutes (for this stage I used the dough attachment in my Kenwood mixer).
- Put in a bowl, cover and leave to rise until the dough has doubled in size. This can take up to two hours depending on the temperature in the room. I used the bread proving setting on my oven and this took one hour.
- Once risen, turn out onto a floured surface and roll out a neat rectangle to a size of 20cmx50cm (8x20in).
- Cut the remaining lard and the butter into thirds, use one third of each to dot little pieces all over the dough. Follow with a third of the sugar and a third of the fruit.
- Pick up the long end of the dough furthest away from you and fold down a third, then fold the bottom end up a third (this will roughly make a square).
- Make a quarter turn with the square and roll out again, repeated the whole process twice until you have used up the sugar, fat and fruit.
- Grease a 9″ round cake tin with lard.
- Form the dough into a round shape to fit the tin.
- Cover with clingfilm and leave to rise again for another half an hour.
- Preheat the oven to 200c (fan). (I always use my bread setting at 200c)
- Bake for 35 mins until golden.
- Leave to cool a little before turning out.
Old Fat Guy says
I love it when people revive traditional dishes. My wife’s family made Lardy Cakes and this post brings back great memories. I may have to forgo my girth control and make one.
Thanks for the post.
The Old Fat Guy
Lindsey Dickson says
Its not something I would make regularly but I can’t explain how delicious it was, well worth making for a treat. It would be such a shame if these old recipes are lost to a generation of people who shy away from anything containing fat. I don’t know anyone where I will who eats dripping anymore, the turkey dripping gets fought over in our house! As my dad used to say, ‘It puts hairs on your chest’ (thankfully that didn’t ever come true for me!)
Mother Mands says
You have some seriously delicious recipes on your site, I’m drooling.
I’ve got to have a go at this Lardy Cake, it’s one of my friends favourites too so I know he’d be really impressed if I made this. I shall be trying a few of your recipes! 😉
Lindsey Dickson says
Hello! Thank you so much for the comment. The Lardy Cake is fabulous, please let me know if you make it, I don’t know anyone else who has ever made one.Not one to make for yourself as it is quite easy to eat the lot!
Suzanne says
I have just made it and it looks amazing .thank you for sharing.
Michael Dickson says
Thank you Suzanne, it’s a real real-time favourite for us. I’ll have to make one now you’ve reminded me!
elira says
Hi,
What is the name of this book please??
Thanks
Michael Dickson says
Thanks for asking! It’s The Complete Bread & Baking Book By Linda Collister & Anthony Blake
Mark-Anthony Conti says
I’ve been lusting after Lardy cake for some time. It’s SO politically incorrect food-wise that you have to whisper the name in public! I have found several recipes but most are very much over complicated. This would, originally, have been as simple as possible and I think that this recipe is just the ticket. Keep it simple. I mean: candied cranberries and cinnamon? In a Lardy Cake? PLEASE!
I look forward to having a go at this recipe.
Well worth reminding people that this is a BREAD – it’s only called a “cake”.
Many thanks
Mark-Anthony
Cassandra Solon Parry says
I made this yesterday after waking up with a sudden nostalgia for the lardy cakes that we used to buy when I was a child on summer holidays in Devon. My brother said ‘lardy cake’ didn’t ring a bell for him but when he took a first bite he said the taste took him right back to being 6 years old. It was delicious and my family were taking extra helpings.
I think the sheer indulgence of this pudding makes it such a life affirming treat. It’s not gluten free; it’s not vegan; it’s not even vegetarian; and the fat content is through the roof! It’s just damned delicious and perfect for a winter’s day. It took me a while to find this recipe as others that came up were clearly adapted for modern concerns… but I’m so glad I did find it. It’s the real thing.
Thank you, Lindsey.
(NB: If I was making it again I’d use 450g flour as I had to add extra milk and ended up with a bit more dough than needed… I only have an 8 inch tin anyway.)
Ian Miller says
Hiya. Just making my lardy cake to your recipe but I used all lard and used the juice and zest of an orange and lemon to soak the fruit in. I can’t wait to try as takes me right back to being a kid on our holidays in Devon, and to be fair I know it’s bad for us but isn’t lard better for us than butter so thats a plus in my eyes. I think i need to buy your book.
Mike Lucas says
I am in my late sixties now but back in the day I attended The Weston-super_mare Grammar School for Boys. At break time in the morning the tuck shop would open and we would queue for lardy cakes. They were wonderful things oozing fat and sugar. Little did I know it then but one of my form mates, Nigel Hess, would go on to become famous!
Michael Dickson says
Lardy Cake is now a guilty pleasure in these days of ‘healthy living’. As my doctor says, every now and then is fine, but not every week!
Peter Bowden says
I made one of these yesterday for my Father’s 97th birthday and success!He has just rung to say it is very good so thank you so much for your recipe.These cakes are not widely available now so I thought I would try to rekindle his childhood memories.
I would give it 5 stars but it only seems to register 4
Michael Dickson says
Thank you Peter, it’s an honour and privilege to know we’ve made someone happy. Please send our regards!
Liz says
Think it’s meant to be a teaspoon of salt not a tablespoon
Michael Dickson says
You are of course correct and the post has been amended. Thank you, it’s really appreciated!
Barry Browning says
At school in Swindon in 1943/45 any treats were hard to find but our local bakery sold delicious lardy cake that just dripped oil. They were bun sized amd were displayed stacked one on top of the others. We always aked for the one on the bottom of the stack and, to myresent surprise, we were always ungrudgingly served that one.
Donna says
Can I soften the fruit in fresh orange juice as gong to cook this tomorrow for some friends in weymouth how I know thay love lardy cake as thay send to a brakay to buy them.i would love this 1 to taste better.
Michael Dickson says
Sure, but we don’t think it’s really needed. The cake will turn out moist and delicious anyhow.
If you decide to pre-soak, make sure the fruit is well drained before adding to the recipe to
help avoid the Lardy Cake becoming soggy. Thanks!
Evelyn says
Reading Restoration by Rose Tremain and Larrdy cake was mentioned. I had to look it up and found your recipe. We make a German yeast bread called stollen with marzipan in it at Christmas. Interesting similarities. I will try larrdy cake.
Michael Dickson says
Please do, and let us know how you get on. It’s delicious!
Lorna Rainbow says
Just checked your site to see dough recipe. I live in Italy and some years ago not being able to find lard, I made a margy cake! Using, obviously margarine and normal pizza dough!
The result was good as I remember, back home in the Uk mum used to cook it in a large tin and baste it with fat that escaped
Michael Dickson says
We’re delighted you like it, thank you!!
Lindsey Dickson says
Thank you so much for the link. I think Lardy Cake is one of my favourite things although not for a weekly bake! I really like your blog, I’ve tried to leave several messages but I’m not sure if they got through. Apologies if you now have 4! Kind regards, Lindsey